Bed layer adhesion is fine as long as there's enough surface area. In fact, I probably didn't need to use the 1000 grit. I'll probably go over the whole bed in 1500, though.
Bed leveling is still a problem, though I made some progress on that. Last time, I traced the problem to the y-axis rods not being perfectly coplanar. Since the glass bed is essentially perfectly stiff, what's happening is the bed is tilting as it moves in y, causing the front left and back right corners to be higher than the other diagonal. Removing the back right screw helped, but ultimately the bed can only be as level as the rods, which I couldn't figure out how to get more level. I realized today that I don't necessarily need to align the y-axis rods with the frame or surface the printer is sitting on, but instead with the nozzle. So I started messing with the Z height of the y-axis rods one end at a time. This is possible by loosening the metal bracket holding the end of the rod, moving it up or down, and retightening. Then doing a normal paper nozzle leveling routine, then repeating. By doing all of this, I was able to get the bed level within ~0.1mm, probably closer to 0.05mm, which is good enough for the whole build surface now.
I also printed new spring cups, though I haven't installed them yet.
PLA seems to be happy around 200C, but I'm going to do some temperature strength tests.
So, new to-do list:
1. Figure out weird power/ground SD card thing
2. Temperature strength tests.
3. A few more calibration prints
4. MOSFET heated bed modification
Current list of mods:
PEI sheet on original aluminum bed- Z frame braces
CiiiCooler shroud + blower fan- removed spring belt tensioners
- Z axis stepper dampers
- Re-squared everything
- Attempted to align y axis belt
- brace the cantilevered y belt pulley with a zip tie
- Medium loctite most screws
- longer screws where need zip ties
- oiled bearings
dial indicator + mount (cheap dial indicator, 3d printed mount)- Sunon MF50151VX-A99 fan for cooler. At least 2x flow rate of common ones for just slightly more.
- Replaced PEI build plate with borosilicate (I know, not necessary, but it was cheaper and precut) glass + thin PEI sheet. Held down with kapton tape on edges.
Added a second spring inside the main spring for the extruder arm.- Turned motor sideways so wires clear top edge. Have to pull some more wire through guides.
- Ball bearing spool holder
- Fixed z steps
- Calibrate extruder steps
- extra screws kit
- y-axis belt tensioner
- New y-axis carriage plate
- 3 screws/springs to hold heated plate instead of 4
- Refurbished heater block, new insulation
- New brass nozzle, PTFE tube
- New thermistor
- Shorter inner spring for extruder
- Microswiss all metal hot end
- New heater core
- Z axis flex couplers
- PETG Diii (or custom?) cooler
- Enclosure for ABS
- Ultrabase build plate
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